Meal: The Uptown Cafe
47 East Broadway
Butte, Montana
There’s a website called Chowhound that inspired me to write about good local food on the internet. The Uptown Cafe in Butte is the most famous restaurant in Montana, Chowhound-wise. Autumn and I came through Butte the Saturday before St. Patrick’s Day, and hoped to find some pre-parade revelry. But Butte was quiet that night, so we passed the bars and dropped into the Uptown.
The Uptown cooks creative, upscale take on traditional Montana supper club cuisine. (While I have heard that they pride themselves on seasonal entrees, the special was the same (delicious) maple and whiskey pork loin I enjoyed in the fall a couple of years ago.) You can start with a cocktail, wine from a short list of standards, or local or domestic beers, and they are all about as inexpensive as you’ll find in a restaurant this good. While the interior is simple and neutral, the walls displayed several large-formate black and white WPA-ere photographs of Butte, on loan from the Montana Historical Society.
The menu offers several lavish steak and seafood options, and we dove right in with Beef Wellington and Coquilles St. Jacques (scallops backed in a gruyere white sauce). But remember the supper club theme: first you have a bowl of cheddar soup or a salad, then cheese-breaded “clams maison” on the half-shell, then a side of undistinguished linguine, and then your main course. Had we been hauling ore all day, we might have still been hungry after these opening courses (and we didn’t even have appetizers), but by the time the entrees came, we felt defeated. All of the entrees should be big enough to stand on their own without the supper club-style excess. Still we plowed through, and the Beef Wellington managed to contain a tender filet inside the flaky pastry, although the brown gravy was more of a reduction that I could have used more of. Autumn’s scallops were small, and baked in a savory but not smooth gruyere sauce; between the two of us we could only finish half the dish, but it would have made a tasty appetizer as a smaller portion.
Dessert was out of the question, though their cheesecake varieties sounded just as over-the-top as the rest of the meal. We’d hate to miss out on one of the other rich entrees, so next time, we’ll just waive the first three courses in hopes of making it to the cheesecake.